An interview by Giuseppe Casagrande, dean of Trentino’s food and wine journalists, with Lorenzo Simoni, the patriarch of the Simoni family.
Meticulous, orderly, rigorous, tenacious, and reliable—these are the traits often associated with those born under the Virgo sign (August), and they perfectly describe Lorenzo Simoni. With sharp entrepreneurial vision, he transformed a small family winery in Lavis—after moving from his native Palù di Giovo—into Cantine Monfort, now a recognized name on national and international markets.
We meet Lorenzo in the new headquarters on Via Stazione, a space shared with his children: Chiara, head of sales, marketing, and hospitality, and Federico, technician and brand ambassador for both domestic and foreign markets.
Lorenzo welcomes us with his signature calm smile—gentlemanly and sincere, just like his wines—and shares a glass of Trentodoc Le Général Blanc Riserva Dosaggio Zero 2016, recently awarded the prestigious “Tastevin” by the Italian Sommelier Association.
Naturally, the conversation turns to the booming sparkling wine sector, which is enjoying a golden age—unlike the declining consumption of still wines, especially reds.
This year, the Simoni family celebrates a major milestone: 40 years ago, the first bottle of traditional method sparkling wine was stored in the vault of the historic Palazzo Monfort in Lavis. Lorenzo’s vision and belief in the potential of the Trentino territory—ideally suited for crafting premium sparkling wines—turned a dream into reality.
Lorenzo, how do you remember that first Monfort champenois?
“I remember it vividly. The birth of our first metodo classico spumante was an incredibly emotional moment—not just for me, but also for our then-cellar master, Dario Tonazzolli. We tasted that slightly dosed Chardonnay and Pinot Noir Brut, aged 36 months on the lees, in reverent silence… then the celebration began. That vintage produced 4,000 bottles. In the years that followed, we focused more and more on extended ageing. Today, Monfort produces nearly 80,000 bottles annually, with labels like Cuvée ’85, Rosé Brut, Rare Vintage, Le Général Dallemagne Riserva, and Le Général Blanc Riserva Pas Dosé, with a Blanc de Noirs set to launch this autumn.”
The Trentodoc sparkling wine movement is booming. Do you support the philosophy of the Trentodoc Institute?
“The role of the Trentodoc Institute is vital. It has greatly increased the visibility of Trentino’s sparkling wines and helped many small producers, who otherwise wouldn’t have had the chance to promote themselves beyond regional borders. Luigi Veronelli was right when, in the late 1990s, he told Professor Francesco Spagnolli that Trentino had all the right conditions—climate, hillside and mountain vineyards, temperature variation, ventilation, and brightness—to become the ‘Champagne of Italy.’ The autumn Trentodoc Festival also deserves praise; it’s an excellent tool for promoting our spumante culture, especially with its curated wine lover tours of vineyards and wineries.”
Besides sparkling wines, which types are Monfort focusing on?
“The current economic climate, raw material costs, climate change, and trade policy uncertainties like Trump’s tariff threats are challenging. The drop in demand for certain wine types—especially full-bodied reds—is concerning. On the other hand, white wines are performing well. Ours are particularly appreciated for their quality-to-price ratio. We’re growing steadily, not only in Italy but also in international markets like Europe, Japan, South Korea, and the U.S.”
Now the next generation—Chiara and Federico—is stepping in. What’s ahead?
“I’m confident about the future. Our winery will remain family-run, just as it has been since my father Giovanni came down from the Val di Cembra to settle in Lavis 80 years ago. My children will play an increasingly central role, supported by our winemaker Maurizio Iachemet and a team of young, talented enologists. The future includes renovating our historic Via Stazione winery, building new offices, and developing a modern tasting and retail area. The path is set, the project is solid, and the passion is strong. We’re ready to toast to all that lies ahead.”
Raise your glasses. Prosit!
—Giuseppe Casagrande